All about Avignon

From popes to performers, theologians to thespians, and Catholics to cast members, Avignon certainly has a taste for the theatrical and the spectacular.

Within its 14th century walls the city’s stunning Palais des Papes and Cathédrale Notre-Dame-Des-Doms loom imposingly over the shady squares and medieval alleys below, which every year play host to the visiting hordes of performers and spectators for the annual Festival d’Avignon.

Just beyond the walls meanwhile, the River Rhône meanders lazily beneath the ruined Pont d’Avignon, amid rolling fields of beautiful blue lavender and gnarled grape vines.

Read on and you’ll find plenty of tantalising titbits about these and various other attractions in Avignon, and see why this particular part of Provence makes for a perfect year-round retreat.

Le Palais des Papes
Le Pont d’Avignon / Le Pont St-Bénezet
Le Festival d’Avignon
Rocher des Domes
Market madness
Swill it, cook it, eat it
Tread Lightly in Avignon

Le Palais des Papes
In 1306, the newly elected French Pope Clement V decided to move his court away from the chaos and turbulence of Rome and took up residence in Avignon.

Over the course of a 68 year period known as the Avignon Papacy, Clement and six of his successors lived in what had been Avignon’s monastery, gradually adding to it until it grew into the vast, imposing edifice that stands today. Don’t expect the interior to necessarily match up to the exterior though; during the French Revolution it was used as a prison and many of the beautiful frescoes were chipped off by guards and sold.

What’s more the palace is also home to la Bouteillerie, the former Artillery Room which now houses a wine cellar run by a dedicated committee of wine buffs. There are guided tastings 365 days a year and you'll get the chance to try some 40-odd drops from the Côtes de Rhône's finest vineyards and leave with a newly acquired knowledge of the region's viticulture and wine-making heritage. But be warned! The sommelier's enthusiasm is catching.

Le Pont d’Avignon / Le Pont St-Bénezet
Whether or not you’re familiar with this bridge from the song named after it (Sur le Pont d’Avignon), you should certainly swing by for a visit.

Completed in 1185, the bridge was originally almost a kilometre long. Its stone arches once spanned the Rhône via the Ile de la Barthelasse in mid-river, although only four of its original 22 arches still stand today; the others were washed away by floods in 1668.

One of the remaining arches is home to the tiny Chapelle St-Nicholas (yes, that’s St Nicholas, as in Santa Claus) which sits precariously on the side of the ruined bridge. You can reach it by walking along the only section of the city walls open to the public, or take a boat trip down the river to inspect what remains of this beautiful, legendary bridge.

Le Festival d’Avignon
Avignon goes culture mad each summer at July's Festival d'Avignon. Originally a theatrical event when it was founded in 1947, the festival has since spread its scope to include dance, music, cinema and comedy; imagine the Edinburgh Festival with a French accent, less wind and (dare we say it?) better food and you won’t be too far off the mark.

Venues include the Palais des Papes' courtyard, 18th-century mansions, old convent buildings and hidden gardens. Just like the Edinburgh Festival, you'll have as much fun at le Festival Off (the Fringe Festival) as at the official event. Not surprisingly, the hotels all get crammed, so book well in advance.

Rocher des Domes
Perched above the Palais des Papes, the hill-top gardens of Rocher des Doms are a favourite haunt of the locals. They come to sip wine, admire the views of the Pont d'Avignon's ruined arches and peer across the Rhône to Villeneuve-lès-Avignon.

Take a turn around the esplanades, where sculptures hide in grottoes and swans dot the pond. It's gorgeous at sunset, when the sinking sun catches the red brick of the papal palace and turns it to gold.

Market madness
Shopping in Avignon is a real treat, with markets to suit all tastes. Stockpile olive oil, saucissons and chèvre at the big and busy Les Halles covered market every morning except Monday. It's bursting with fresh produce and Provençal atmosphere. Buy bunches of lavender from Place des Carmes' Saturday flower market and hunt for brightly coloured Provençal ceramics at its Sunday flea market.

Sophisticated boutiques line the place Crillon and rue Joseph-Vernet, and you'll find stores selling upmarket household goods in the arcaded rues des Marchands.

Swill it, cook it, eat it
Formerly a cardinal's palace and seat of Avignon aristocracy, the 700-year-old La Mirande Hotel oozes opulence throughout its luxurious interior. Come for a night of serious pampering and get a lesson in the city's social history to boot.

The on-site cookery school based in the old 19th-century kitchens is a must for travelling foodies. You'll taste wines and learn traditional Provençal recipes from top chefs. Groups are small, just 6-12 pupils per session, and you get to enjoy the fruits of your labours afterwards with an expertly picked glass of Côtes de Rhône.

Tread Lightly in Avignon
If you prefer the scent of lavender to fumes in the air, do your bit by staying car free and hiring a bike to enjoy the Rhône-side cycle paths, transformed from towpaths.

Inside the city ramparts, you can get to know the winding streets of the old city, many of which are evocatively named after medieval trades. The rue des Teinturiers, once home to fabric dyers, is one of the prettiest, with working waterwheels in the canal, cosy restaurants and arts-and-crafts shops.