A weekend in Cologne

With its landmark spires, world-class art and cool cocktail bars, this famously laidback city is perfect for short breaks.

Why Cologne is the perfect city break

If the city isn’t on your radar yet, it’s time that changed. Cologne may be best known for its soaring Gothic cathedral, but – impressive though it may be – there’s so much more to this city. The cobbled Old Town, hit hard by wartime bombs, testifies to its resilient spirit, while its many breweries reflect locals’ devotion to Kölsch. Year-round, there’s plenty to do here, from wandering through masterpiece-filled museums to taking a boat trip on the Rhine, or café-hopping and graffiti-spotting in neighbourhoods like Ehrenfeld. Taking the train to Cologne is easy, you can go direct from Brussels in 1 hour 50 minutes or go from London with a change in Brussels.

Three days in Cologne

Follow our itinerary to tick off the city’s greatest hits, from a beer in a wood-panelled brauhaus to a sunset stroll by the Rhine. If you are planning a city trip to Cologne, check out our destination guide – and note that many restaurants, shops and museums are closed on Mondays.

Day one

Where else to start but the cathedral? Grandly Gothic and UNESCO-listed, it has wonders at every turn, from the transept’s technicolour window to the gilded Shine of the Three Kings, said to contain the bones of the biblical three kings. After climbing the south tower, explore the cobbled Old Town; if a guided tour appeals, our partner Musement offers special rates. When you get hungry hit a brauhaus or cross the Rhine for pork cutlets and Kölsch at the cash-onlyGaststätte Lommerzheim. Back by the cathedral, wander among the Museum Ludwig’s Picassos, before heading north to hip Agnesviertal for dinner: book a table at Caruso Pasta Bar, and don’t miss the tiramisu.

Day Two

Start the day on Café Goldjunge’s terrace, not far from the river, with a cup of excellent coffee and a fried egg-topped, rye bread strammer. Next, the art-filled Wallraf-Richartz-Museum calls; don’t miss its Madonna of the Rose Bower, hailed as Cologne’s Mona Lisa. Afterwards, stroll along Schildergasse, the city’s historic shopping street, calling by the farmer’s market at St Aposteln (Tuesdays and Fridays only). From here, it’s a short walk to the buzzy Belgian Quarter, with its galleries and niche boutiques selling skateboards, screenprints and more. For dinner, Noa is a likeable, laidback spot; afterwards sip cocktails at Little Link or a beer on Brüsseler Platz.

Day Three

Head for the Rheinauhafen district, just south of the Old Town. Once a working harbour, it’s now a sleek new neighbourhood, where historic cranes share the skyline with the cantilevered Kranhäuser (crane houses). Just past the marina is the Lindt Chocolate Museum, best booked ahead to avoid the queues and get straight to the chocolate fountain. While the samples are tempting, leave room for lunch in nearby Südstadt, whose wallet-friendly options include burgers at Die Fette Kuh and Vietnamese street food at Yame. After lunch, if the weather permits, retreat to a sociable beer garden, whether it’s the riverside Biergarten am Rheinaufen or the low-key, leafy Alteburg.

Shopping and eating out

Take a detour from the big-name stores along Schildergasse to visit Manufactum Warenhuis, with its functional yet beautiful objects, or buy a bottle of cologne at Farina 1709. Cool neighbourhoods like the Belgian Quarter are best for cliché-free souvenirs, while Nippes’ fleamarket – held once a month – is the place for vintage finds. The city’s eating scene is equally varied, running from hyped brunch spots to charismatic old-timers: don’t miss the schnitzel at Bei Omm Kleinmann, or a plate of black pudding at Gaffel am Dom. Whether you’re in the market for a quick bowl of pho or a Michelin-approved tasting menu, our eating guide has all the best addresses.

Only in Cologne

Simply sipping a Kölsch is a quintessential local experience: it can only be brewed here, and is part of the city’s very soul. Carnival, too, is synonymous with Cologne, and a highlight of the calendar, though the glitter-sprinkled Pride weekend gives it a run for its money.

Brewery tours and Kölsch tasting

To smell the hops and see the brewers in action, go behind the scenes at Brauwelt Köln, which brews two of the city’s most famous Kölsch, Sünner and Mühlen. It offers tastings and hour-long tours with a cloudy but crisp-tasting Zwickel beer straight from the tank. The tourist office organises occasional beer tours, some including lunch, but you can also plot your own route around some of the best brewhouses. In the Old Town, start by the Cathedral with a drink at Früh am Dom, then zig-zag south towards the charming Sünner im Walfisch, calling at Brauhaus Sion, Peters Brauhaus and Brauhaus ‘Zum Prinzen’, whose terrace makes a pleasant stop for lunch.

Festivals and events

Held in February or early March, the headline event is Carnival, with six days of parties and parades where the crowds are showered with sweets and flowers. There are more parades in July for Pride, this time with extra rhinestones, while the three-day Summerjam festival sways to a Caribbean rhythm. Look out, too, for Summer Köln, with its packed programme of free culture. October brings the city’s marathon, while November’s highlight is Museums Night, when galleries and museums stay open late, with beers and bands as a bonus. In the winter, the Christmas markets in Cologne are nothing short of magical – as is skating on the outdoor rink that pops up at Heumarkt.

Getting around and where to stay

With its network of trains, trams and buses, the city’s easy to explore. Aside from the standard tickets and passes, KölnCards are well worth a look, combining free public transport with discounts on museums and attractions. Walking’s the best way to get to know the city, ideally paired with bikes – just watch out for the Alstadt’s cobbles, which can make for a bumpy ride. When it comes to deciding where to stay, there’s a multitude of neighbourhoods to choose from, running from the lively Belgian Quarter to café-dotted Südstadt. Not sure where’s best? Consult our destination guide and lowdown on the city’s best hotels.

Cologne on a budget

Keeping costs down in Cologne doesn’t mean missing out. Entry to the cathedral’s free, bar the treasury and tower, while museums are reasonably priced (at Museum Ludwig, it’s €12 for adults, while under-18s go free). Combining public transport with discounted entry rates, the KölnCard – from €9 for 24 hours – is a sensible purchase. Use it to venture beyond the tourist trail, heading for lunch in the lively Südstadt or exploring boho Agnesviertel. In summer, stroll the riverside Rheinboulevard or discover the city’s many parks – most of which have budget-friendly beer gardens for a leisurely Kölsch or two. Our guide to exploring the city on a budget has more tips, from cheap eats to affordable hotels.

FAQs

You can either take a direct Eurostar train from Brussels to Cologne in just 1 hour 52 minutes or go from London to Cologne with a quick change in Brussels.

This is a year-round city. Come in winter for the Christmas markets, cosy brewhouses and fairylight-decked squares, or spring and summer to explore the parks, beer gardens and riverside promenade. Carnival is in full swing in February (or early March, some years), while Pride weekend is in July.

If you’re backpacking with a close eye on costs and staying in a hostel dorm, budget around €70–€80 per day. For a stay in a four-star hotel, with more money for museums and meals, around €200 per day is a good starting point.

Cologne is a terrific destination for kids, with its chocolate museum, river cruises and leafy parks and playgrounds. Most museums are free for under-18s, and the city’s varied food scene should please even the fussiest of eaters.

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A weekend in Cologne

Why Cologne is the perfect city break